add support for arbitrary SSH commands (attic#99)
while SSH options can be specified through `~/.ssh/config`, some users
may want to use a completely different SSH command for their backups,
without overriding their $PATH variable. it may also be easier to do
ad-hoc configuration and tests that way.
plus, the POLA tells us that users expects something like this to be
supported by commands that talk to ssh. it is supported by rsync, git
and so on.